Edinburgh is a gorgeous city with tons to offer for first time visitors and locals alike. On my second visit to this city I was on a mission, nay, a journey, to experience Edinburgh through its many pubs and local watering holes.
I loved hopping from pub to pub and experiencing the unique atmosphere in each one- not to mention the history! Some of these pubs are older than America.
It’s important to mention, I think, Edinburgh serves beers in multiple sizes. The standard size for beers is a pint, which is 20oz, as opposed to the American 16oz pint. Unlike the US, beers are also commonly offered in half and third pints which can help visitors sample more beers with less trips to the bathroom. A third of a pint is also occasionally called a Schooner, though I think that’s more of an Australian term.
I’ve compiled a list of some of my favorite pubs- and yes, I did get a drink at (almost) all of them!
To make this list easier to peruse, I organized the bars into three different sections: Pubs, Cocktail Bars, and Folk Music Pubs.
I’ve defined Pubs as the typical atmospheric pubs you think of when you think of Europe- usually homey and comfortable, with an emphasis on beer (and, in this case, whisky).
Cocktail Bars are a little bit more high end, with aesthetically pleasing decor and mixed drinks being the main draw.
Folk Music Pubs are similar to standard Pubs, but will have more traditional music sessions typically tucked away in the back. Unlike a paid live music performance that a standard bar may have, these musicians are usually also having a night out- they’re bringing their musical talents to the pub where most people bring conversation! It seemed that most of these pubs had a scheduled performer playing nightly and other visitors were welcome to bring their own instruments to play or even sing along!
Let me clarify- Edinburgh is a very musical city, especially while I was visiting during the Fringe Festival, so it’s not unusual to stumble across live music wherever you go- but these pubs are known for the music sessions in particular.
Pubs
The White Hart Inn
The White Hart Inn is one of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs, and its prominent location in Grassmarket Square has ensured a steady flow of visitors since its founding in 1516. Although the original inn has been destroyed, its remaining structure dates back to 1740- so still pretty historic! The pub claims to have hosted the likes of Oliver Cromwell, William Wordsworth and Robert Burns- though with the crowds it gets nightly, I’m sure there are more than a few other famous footsteps to walk with.
The interior of the pub is accented with lovely dark wood and a large bar area. Although seating is limited, the great location and live music will have you standing with your pint just to experience the atmosphere.
During my visit, Ciaran McGhee was performing and he really got the crowd going! I was introduced to a few new songs that didn’t quite make it across the water to the US, the most important of which was “The Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond”, which I proceeded to hear nearly every day for the rest of my trip.
The Last Drop
Just down the street, The Last Drop is a gallows themed pub thought to have once been home to Edinburgh’s main gallows. The name is a pun referring both to the acting of being hanged, and also the last of your drink!
There are plenty of macabre decorations throughout the pub, but it is owned by the chain brand Nicholson’s. As much as I like their pub menus with a Scottish flair, I personally prefer to drink at more local establishments.
Cold Town House
Also on Grassmarket, Cold Town House is a more modern affair. They specialize in Pizza made in their own custom pizza oven and serve brews straight from their very own micro brewery.
The crown jewel of the establishment is their rooftop terrace from which one can take in the sight of the Edinburgh Castle while sipping on a drink.
Due to a combination of instagram popularity and the crowds of the Fringe Festival, the terrace was always full when I visited, but it looks like you can make reservations online.
Jolly Judge
Tucked at the foot of a close (a narrow alleyway typically leading to a courtyard), the Jolly Judge is a low-ceilinged basement pub.
Rumor has it the pub is so named because of the Judge from the nearby courthouses stopping by for a meal and a pint on their lunch breaks. They’d return in a much better mood (and potentially a bit buzzed) and would hand out lighter sentences for the rest of the day.
Seating is pretty limited, but I was able to snag a seat at the bar. The pub also has outdoor seating, but it was packed and I wanted the experience the atmosphere of the pub itself.
Given its size, I was surprised by the extensive selection of drinks here and happy to see a relatively inexpensive whisky and gin tasting menu for those interested.
The Queens Arms
The Queens Arms is a cozy underground pub, lined with bookshelves and comfortable seating. The huge oval shaped bar allows bartenders to serve guests in all directions- which implied to me that they’re usually quite crowded, though I was able to easily grab a small booth to relax with my notebook and a drink during my visit.
This seemed a bit more like a classic sports pub, or a nice place to grab a dinner compared to some of the other pubs I’d visited.
Salt Horse
For those interested in craft beer, Salt Horse is the place for you! With 14 beers on draught, and over 200 cans and bottles, there’s something for everyone! Salt Horse has more of a modern vibe than some of the other pubs on this list, but still worth a stop!
Cocktail Bars
Lucky Liquor Co
This trendy cocktail bar was super quiet when I visited, but I had a lovely time talking to the friendly bar tender who even made me a customized cocktail based on my personal taste and allergies- a delicious variation of their Devil’s Chase cocktail. Their cocktail menu changes regularly so there’s always a ton of new options to try.
The bar has an extensive vinyl collection and the bartenders take great pride in selecting the perfect soundtrack for the night.
The basement even has a pool table with more seating.
Paradise Palms
This quirky spot was absolutely covered in eclectic decorations and tropical themed decor. Although it’s known as a vegan restaurant, the kitchen was closed for a decent portion of my visit “to let the cooks catch up to the orders”, which….I’ve never seen happen before.
Luckily I was just there to enjoy the atmosphere and sip a beer. The space was pretty crowded, so I finished my drink quickly to open up the table I was sat at, but there were a few sections of seats. Some outside, some in the main area in front of a small stage (not in use during my visit), and a small more private lounge area towards the back.
I wanted to stop here because I’d heard that they’d mail custom postcards for you, but of course I forgot to ask while I was there! If someone stops by, send one my way!
Balmoral Bar
Okay, I’ll be honest, the Balmoral Bar was a little too expensive for me so I didn’t actually get a drink here. I only popped by to get a peek at their Palm Court dining area and this fancy bar caught my eye. Most of the cocktails here will run about £20 per drink, but what else can you expect from a 5-Star hotel that is regularly visited by celebrities.
The whole place smelled amazing, too! It just goes to show how every little detail in the hotel is considered. It’s worth stopping by just to poke around the lobby, plus it’s conveniently located near Waverly Station.
Folk Music Pubs
Captain’s Bar
My personal favorite folk bar was Captain’s Bar! This classic pub has a great selection of drinks and the back of the pub often hosts local musicians. I got the impression that one person was scheduled to play for a certain amount of time, but that guests could join in as they liked! It was a great atmosphere to be a part of and it felt really local!
Sandy Bell’s
This pub was recommended to me several times during my visit- and for good reason! This local has a ton of beers and whiskies on offer and has hosted traditional music sessions since 1942.
The popularity of the pub means that you’re likely to spot more tourists here, but locals and tourists alike are welcome to enjoy the music with a nice cold drink.
The Royal Oak
This tiny pub is tactfully referred to as “intimate” but is in fact just a few hundred square feet, so be prepared for it to be packed! The venue is well known for live music and seems to be quite local. I visited with a local Scot, so I wasn’t hassled, but I got the impression that outsiders may not be preferred visitors here- unless they can sing!
Unlike many other pubs there was a piano and a guitar available to play, which opened the floor to any visitor who happened to be able to play and I thought that was a nice touch. For the most part, folk musicians have to bring their own instruments to participate!
Despite my extensive “research”, I didn’t visit a fraction of the pubs in Edinburgh- but I had a nice time trying!
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What an extensive list! There’s something about the bars overseas that give off that old-fashioned, cozy tavern feel to it. Although I don’t drink anymore, I’m sure ordering a mocktail at one of these establishments to experience the atmosphere would be fun! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Ooh yes, a mock tail would be fun! I was mostly ordering beers, but I don’t see why they wouldn’t have ingredients for mock tails, and most of these places offered food too!